The adventures of an 18th century imagination, located in Northern Europe formerly ruled over by joint rulers Duke Karl Frederick and Duchess Liv.Not to mention the American colony of Ny Tradgardland the 17th century Colony of New Tradgardstadt and the newly restored territory of the Shetland Isles.
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Thursday, 11 March 2021
Casting possibilities?
I was wondering about trying to copy this semi flat metal tank using the putty you get on Amazon to make moulds ? Has anyone ever tried this successfully?
I would use Tiranti rubbers (or dental rubbers if not using molten metal) for making that kind of mould - make an open sided box with LEGO bricks, plasticene in the bottom, press model into plasticene, pour rubber over top, when set remove LEGO bottom and carefully peel away plasticene, take care not to pull model out of set rubber (never goes back properly), build up new sides, plenty of mould release agent over the model and set rubber, pour rubber over to give second half of mould. Should work really well with semi flat figures like those.
Rob Young has described pretty well exactly the same method that I have used in the past to do home casting. If treated properly, the moulds will last for years. The only thin that I would add to Rob's description is to put a couple of indents into the plasticene so that locating holes will be formed in the first side of the mould that you create. When you make the second side, small lugs will be formed and these can be used to ensure that the mould lines up properly when used.
I used to make moulds for figures and ships etc using RTV rubber (room temperature vulcanisation) and then cast in toy soldier alloy on the kitchen cooker.
This was a long time ago and required a bit of experimentation to get things just right.
There are a significant number of alternative products these days which I cannot vouch for.
I have used both putty and liquid. With active poses or deep detail its a steep curve to get detail without a lot of flash but with these it should be fairly easy. Just follow the directions.
Go old school - use plaster of Paris as described in detail in "Military Modelling" by the Don... a slightly tongue in cheek suggestion as I suspect the rubber moulding solutions will work far better! :o)
I would use Tiranti rubbers (or dental rubbers if not using molten metal) for making that kind of mould - make an open sided box with LEGO bricks, plasticene in the bottom, press model into plasticene, pour rubber over top, when set remove LEGO bottom and carefully peel away plasticene, take care not to pull model out of set rubber (never goes back properly), build up new sides, plenty of mould release agent over the model and set rubber, pour rubber over to give second half of mould. Should work really well with semi flat figures like those.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the detailed and clear instructions.
DeleteTradgardmastare,
ReplyDeleteRob Young has described pretty well exactly the same method that I have used in the past to do home casting. If treated properly, the moulds will last for years. The only thin that I would add to Rob's description is to put a couple of indents into the plasticene so that locating holes will be formed in the first side of the mould that you create. When you make the second side, small lugs will be formed and these can be used to ensure that the mould lines up properly when used.
Good luck,
Bob
Thanks for the additional advice.
DeleteAlan
ReplyDeleteI used to make moulds for figures and ships etc using RTV rubber (room temperature vulcanisation) and then cast in toy soldier alloy on the kitchen cooker.
This was a long time ago and required a bit of experimentation to get things just right.
There are a significant number of alternative products these days which I cannot vouch for.
Have a look around YouTube for suggestions.
Jim
Found this.
ReplyDeletehttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Flat-Tank-Cannon-Miniature-Metal-Punched-Crackerjacks-Skinny-Liz-WWI/323781595487?hash=item4b62e3115f:g:vG8AAOSwUERckoQs
A bit pricey.
It is but interesting too.
DeleteI have used both putty and liquid. With active poses or deep detail its a steep curve to get detail without a lot of flash but with these it should be fairly easy. Just follow the directions.
ReplyDeleteThanks Ross.
DeleteGo old school - use plaster of Paris as described in detail in "Military Modelling" by the Don... a slightly tongue in cheek suggestion as I suspect the rubber moulding solutions will work far better! :o)
ReplyDelete